Blésotto de légumes verts

Blésotto de légumes verts is a green-vegetable grain dish for people who want something in the risotto family but built around wheat rather than rice. By our assessment, its appeal is the soft, starchy texture that a blésotto promises, with vegetables folded in so the bowl feels complete without needing much else. The catch is that it lives or dies on seasoning and vegetable quality, because this kind of dish can turn plain quickly if the broth and greens are timid. In practice it is the sort of prepared food that sits somewhere between a side dish and a light main, with less ceremony than a true risotto. Compared with rice-based versions, wheat gives it a different chew and a more rustic feel, which is probably the main reason to reach for it. It suits a calm, vegetarian-minded plate, and it will not satisfy anyone looking for a sharp, richly layered grain dish. The catalogue’s wheat-germ category is a bit odd beside the name, which makes the whole thing feel more niche than polished.